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MIKAN
MIKAN A Short Story Mount Daisen Tottori, Japan Francisco de Goya - Vuelo de brujas (1798) ------------ What is the black that lies beyond black? With that thought drifting through my mind, I follow the passing trees with my eyes. The headlights are swallowed by the darkness, and the car’s shadow seems to be left behind where it was. “We’re here.” Those words make me realize that I am not alone in the car. The house we arrive at is the one I had heard rumors about before—the
A Radium Hot Spring Hidden in the Mountains of Kyoto
I lived in Europe for many years. Whenever I moved, there was one condition I always insisted on: An apartment with a bathtub. In many European homes, showers are standard and bathtubs are not. So when I finally found a place with a tub, I proudly told my Japanese friends in London. That’s how much bathing matters to many Japanese people. This deep love of bathing is closely tied to Japan’s geography. The country sits on an active volcanic belt, with abundant groundwater, ge
Why I Go North in Summer: Aomori
There is something in Japan called a “seasonal cold.” It is a virus that spreads widely at the change of seasons. One of the most well-known examples is influenza. Its symptoms resemble those of a common cold, but it is characterized by a sudden high fever exceeding 38°C. As it happens, I am one of those who has been battling the influenza virus for the past week, surviving the high fever. Even while delirious with fever, I found myself thinking about my next journey—perhaps
The Fire Ritual at Yoshida Shrine
Early February in Kyoto is still cold. Around this time of year, Yoshida Shrine, located in Sakyo Ward, hosts one of the city’s largest Setsubun festivals. The shrine grounds fill with people, food stalls line the paths, and as night falls, large fires are lit. The festival stays open late, lanterns glowing in the dark, creating an atmosphere that feels quietly mysterious rather than festive in a loud way. Yoshida Shrine Entrance Yoshida Shrine is often described as “a little
A Sauna Not Yet Found
A few weeks earlier, it had already been decided that I would visit Sado Island, yet no matter how much I searched existing websites for places to stay or hot springs, nothing truly stirred me. So I began sliding the cursor along the roads on Google Maps, as if I were actually driving them, searching for somewhere that had not yet been found. That was when I noticed the word “sauna,” written almost casually on the northern side of the island, facing the Sea of Japan. What was
Borrowed Scenery, Borrowed Time:Eating Shojin Ryori in Arashiyama, Kyoto
I was born in Kyoto and grew up there until I graduated from high school. After that, I lived in London for many years, but since the pandemic I have found myself spending long periods of time back in Kyoto, returning often. Kyoto is one of Japan’s most famous tourist destinations, filled with historical sites and places that seem endless in number. Yet when I was a child, I often avoided them simply because I was “local.” This time, I decided to visit one of those places I h
SADO ISLAND -A Hidden, Serene Island in Eastern Japan-
Sado Island—an island of eastern Japan, quietly beautiful. A place untouched by crowds, where one can experience the true beauty of Japan. Fleeing the sweltering August heat of Tokyo, I headed for this island located off the western coast of Niigata Prefecture. From Tokyo Station, I took the Shinkansen to Niigata. From Niigata Port, Sado Island lies about an hour away by ferry. Over the centuries, influences from western Japan and the Hokuriku region arrived here, and courtly
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