Why I Go North in Summer: Aomori

There is something in Japan called a “seasonal cold.” It is a virus that spreads widely at the change of seasons. One of the most well-known examples is influenza. Its symptoms resemble those of a common cold, but it is characterized by a sudden high fever exceeding 38°C. As it happens, I am one of those who has been battling the influenza virus for the past week, surviving the high fever. Even while delirious with fever, I found myself thinking about my next journey—perhaps that in itself is a serious condition. In my feverish state, I inexplicably recalled the summer of two years ago: that fresh and beautiful summer in Aomori.

Oirase-Keiryu

Aomori is the northernmost prefecture on Japan’s main island. Its capital is Aomori City, and the population is approximately 1.2 million. It is an agricultural region well known for its apples. I had two reasons for going to Aomori. One was to see an exhibition by my partner, NORI. The other was to escape, even slightly, from Japan’s humid summer. As with Niigata, I make it a habit to travel north in the summer.

Aomori is home to many art and cultural facilities. Contemporary and modern art museums and art centers are located throughout the prefecture, along with numerous large-scale outdoor sculptures by well-known artists. It is difficult to see everything in just two nights and three days, so I focused on the Oirase and Towada areas. Aomori is also famous for its hot springs, and I would like to introduce some of them along the way.

For the first and second nights, I stayed at Oirase Keiryu Hotel which is built inside a national park. The facility is a large complex, with a grand fireplace and lounge at the entrance, a cafeteria, several lounges of different sizes, a reading corner, hot springs, and restaurants featuring local ingredients. As a recently popular all-inclusive retreat, everything was thoughtfully prepared, and it was wonderful.

Entrance with big fireplace

The natural beauty of the national park is beyond words. One can take walks along the mountain stream or do morning stretches by the water. At night, with no artificial lights nearby, it is possible to soak in the hot springs beneath a sky full of stars. More than tourists, there were many adult guests who had come to care for their bodies, and I was grateful to be able to spend my time quietly.

The food and service were of exceptional quality. There were salads made generously with Aomori’s vegetables and water, dozens of apple dishes and desserts, and of course drinks. Everything was stylish and refined, yet unpretentious. As it was a buffet, I could return as many times as I liked for the dishes I enjoyed. I piled my plate high with salad and had more than three servings of apple pie. Remembering it now makes me want to eat it again. I still think the vegetables I had in Aomori were the best in Japan.

On the second day, I went to Sukayu Onsen. With a history of 300 years, this hot spring inn has a very different atmosphere from the modern Hoshino Resort. There, one can experience a traditional toji stay. Toji refers to Japan’s long-standing therapeutic practice of staying at a hot spring resort for a week to a month or more, using the healing properties of the waters for medical treatment and physical recovery.

Sukayu Onsen has both a therapeutic lodging area and a regular ryokan area, but I mistakenly booked a room in the toji section. The room was truly simple—no air conditioning, and only a thin futon laid directly on the floor. Guests who come to recuperate usually stay there for extended periods. It was, in its own way, a valuable experience. The 300-year-old bath was almost entirely empty, and experiencing the historic building and its hot spring was something quite special. (Though I must admit, the previous hotel suited me better.)

Hot spring culture by Hiroshige Utagawa

Between visits to the hot springs, I went to contemporary art museums. Aomori has five major museums: the Aomori Museum of Art, Towada Art Center, Hirosaki Museum of Contemporary Art, Hachinohe Art Museum, and the Aomori Contemporary Art Centre. The prefecture is often called an “art prefecture,” with museums and cultural institutions scattered throughout, each with its own focus—contemporary art, Jomon culture, local artists, and architectural heritage. This time, I visited the Towada Art Center, where Nori’s work was on display (and, by coincidence, two other friends were also exhibiting), as well as the Aomori Contemporary Art Centre and the Aomori Museum of Art.

If I begin to speak about the art, it will become too long, so I will refrain. Still, I was satisfied to experience the large-scale works of renowned artists. It was my first time seeing Yoshitomo Nara’s large dog sculpture in person, and the Aomori Contemporary Art Centre—with its architecture blending into the forest—was entirely to my taste. I highly recommend visiting both.

Come to think of it, early on the second morning I went to Lake Towada to see the lake at dawn. I sat down near the water, surrounded by forest. The surface of the lake rippled gently, and birds could be heard calling. For some reason, it reminded me of the lake in Zurich, Switzerland. Swans gliding gracefully across the water, young people sitting at regular intervals, having small barbecues. A similarly unhurried time was flowing there.

I began to feel hungry. I would return to the hotel and go for the breakfast buffet. Brushing the small stones from my clothes, I stood up and turned my back to the lake.

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Written by Tama (NOTA)