I lived in Europe for many years.  Whenever I moved, there was one condition I always insisted on: An apartment with a bathtub. In many European homes, showers are standard and bathtubs are not. So when I finally found a place with a tub, I proudly told my Japanese friends in London. That’s how much bathing matters to many Japanese people. This deep love of bathing is closely tied to Japan’s geography. The country sits on an active volcanic belt, with abundant groundwater, ge

Early February in Kyoto is still cold. Around this time of year, Yoshida Shrine, located in Sakyo Ward, hosts one of the city’s largest Setsubun festivals. The shrine grounds fill with people, food stalls line the paths, and as night falls, large fires are lit. The festival stays open late, lanterns glowing in the dark, creating an atmosphere that feels quietly mysterious rather than festive in a loud way. Yoshida Shrine Entrance Yoshida Shrine is often described as “a little

I was born in Kyoto and grew up there until I graduated from high school. After that, I lived in London for many years, but since the pandemic I have found myself spending long periods of time back in Kyoto, returning often. Kyoto is one of Japan’s most famous tourist destinations, filled with historical sites and places that seem endless in number. Yet when I was a child, I often avoided them simply because I was “local.” This time, I decided to visit one of those places I h